Wabash RR Lock, Real or Otherwise?

timof5stars

I’ve received what I believe to be an authentic Yale logo/railroad lock. The lock is 2″ wide and 3″ high (to top of shackle). It is brass and weighs 12.3 ounces (350 grams). See anything suspicious or do we have a winner?

Adrian Weber

Looks like a winner to me but just to be sure make a picture of the key only.

bbcci

The key looks like it’s an aftermarket cut by the “A1 Lock” -probably locksmith company. With signs the case has been opened, they may have done that to key the lock. Don’t know if the pins are still original, but the design and outer case are real enough. Winner!

Dean Nickel

I also would say original but it has been rekeyed/fit keyed.

timof5stars

Thanks to everyone who replied. First, as requested, the key only:

Second, if the case was opened to re-key the lock, then whoever did it doesn’t get any points - for the key I received does not operate the lock - not even close. I gently tried both directions for the last ¼″ prior to shoulder. Did not feel like a match or even an “almost”.

Correct me if I’m wrong but my understanding is that opening the case pretty much toasts the value of the lock as an antique. Add to that the fact that the key doesn’t work and what we’re left with may be interesting but not of much resale value. Correct?

It sounds like this would be a lock best given away after disposing of the key.

Billy B Edwards Jr. CML

timof5stars wrote
Thanks to everyone who replied. First, as requested, the key only:

Second, if the case was opened to re-key the lock, then whoever did it doesn’t get any points - for the key I received does not operate the lock - not even close. I gently tried both directions for the last ¼″ prior to shoulder. Did not feel like a match or even an “almost”.

Correct me if I’m wrong but my understanding is that opening the case pretty much toasts the value of the lock as an antique. Add to that the fact that the key doesn’t work and what we’re left with may be interesting but not of much resale value. Correct?

It sounds like this would be a lock best given away after disposing of the key.

From the shoulder, (the flat part of the key that stops it going further into the lock), to the center of the first cut should be .200″. Check that dimension to make sure it is accurate as the spacing of cuts sometimes can be the problem. If it is farther than that just pull the key out the difference and it may work. If it is less, contact a local locksmith to have the either cut the key by code or impression the lock to get a working key. Impressioning is the best choice because there isn’t a guarantee that the combination on the key is the correct one.

As for the lock being taken apart and rekeyed the job wasn’t very well done but it is still a RR logo lock and has value, the poor rekey just reduces the value a little. In 1999 that lock in good shape had a typical value of $50.00.
BBE.

[unknown]

timof5stars

BBE wrote
From the shoulder, (the flat part of the key that stops it going further into the lock), to the center of the first cut should be .200″. Check that dimension to make sure it is accurate as the spacing of cuts sometimes can be the problem.

It looks like .200 to me – I think the first cut is zero-bitted since there is only a tiny bit of metal shaved from key at that position:[INDENT]
[/INDENT]

In the above photo, the caliper has slipped a slight bit to the left away from shoulder. Here’s a photo showing the first cut a bit better:[INDENT]
[/INDENT]

BBE wrote
Impressioning is the best choice because there isn’t a guarantee that the combination on the key is the correct one.

I can try. I just took a large Yale (2″ × 3″) in to see if my local locksmith could impression a key (no code on the lock). A few days later he left a message with my wife saying he was not going to be able to impression it. I did not get the opportunity when I picked up the lock to dig deeper as he was not available. The girl at the counter said “Sometimes Yales can be difficult to impression.” I have no idea if that is true. But as he was only going to charge me $30, I can’t really expect him to spend a ton of time getting to a working key. My interpretation is that he has an impressioning method to get to a working key fairly fast but that the method doesn’t always work on every lock.

BBE wrote
As for the lock being taken apart and rekeyed the job wasn’t very well done but it is still a RR logo lock and has value, the poor rekey just reduces the value a little. In 1999 that lock in good shape had a typical value of $50.00.
BBE.

So maybe $25 - $30 would not be unreasonable for a lock with these shortcomings?

[unknown] [unknown] [unknown]

timof5stars

I also have a Nickle Plate RR that I’m a bit more confident in (in much better condition). I’ll post some pics in a day or two…

Billy B Edwards Jr. CML

timof5stars wrote
I can try. I just took a large Yale (2″ × 3″) in to see if my local locksmith could impression a key (no code on the lock). A few days later he left a message with my wife saying he was not going to be able to impression it. I did not get the opportunity when I picked up the lock to dig deeper as he was not available. The girl at the counter said “Sometimes Yales can be difficult to impression.” I have no idea if that is true.

That is sometimes true depending upon the kwyway involved. The E1R can be difficult depending upon the combination. Yes, that lock should still be worth the $25-$30 you suggest, even without a working key.
BBE.

[unknown]

peerless

Have your locksmith friend look up Yale® code number 26102 just for giggles, it may show as several possibilities, if your key matches one of those possibilities that means the lock was not only taken apart - as it’s evident it has been, but also rekeyed.

timof5stars

One more question. Even though the lock has the railroad’s name on it, would I be correct in assuming that this lock was never used to secure railroad switches? What I’m getting at is that eBay has a policy against listing “railroad locks” but if I’m understanding it, the policy is meant to discourage those individuals who might steal the locks from switches and directly or indirectly cause an accident (or a ‘deliberate’ as the case may be). As a ‘logo lock’ the Yale seems more like an advertising premium. Right or wrong?

peerless

The lock you have would’ve been used on communication or signaling systems’ cabinets. The funny part is the cuts on the key you have certainly appear to be the correct ones for the “Signal” locks. [[[Scratches head as to why someone would’ve taken the lock apart]]]🙁whew):