my new sargent and greenleaf vault lock

femurat

I don’t know how many of you have been so lucky to get one of these big vault locks. Thanks to a nice member here I got some nice stuff. I’m going to restore it and put on a wooden stand…

Here are a few pictures of the lock body

Here are some pictures I took while reassembling the lock. I know I’d better clean it, but this was just to show the internals.

Here is the back

Since nobody did that already I took some pictures with a standard 6700 for size comparison

With this lock I got its brass spline and a special dial ring, that has a different shaped brass spline. All I had to do was to file down its brass spline to fit the dial and gear of that different dial ring. I had to file down a little the pentagonal part because it was too big to fit into the dial hole. Then I had to taper it. Then I had to file a square to fit the gear. It was not difficult but I took my time since I only had a flat file and a vice, and couldn’t screw up. As you can see, I did it! I’m pretty proud of myself :8):

So let’s see how it should look once complete with this very big and very cool chromed dial plate

The ring is a bit ruined, just where the index should be. I’ll find a way to restore that. I think I can file it down a little to remove the corroded part and then cut the index again. Hints are welcome.

Now I need to find out more about the lock that prevents the gear, hence the dial, to rotate. Since it came without a key, I need to make one.

It’s a lever lock

I lifted the levers manually and slide the bolt halfway to show the correct bittings the key should have

I’ll use the curtain as a reference to measure each lever height. Then I’ll translate them to a flat piece of steel, leaving it just a hair higher so I can finish impressioning it.

Enough for today.

Cheers 🙂

wylk

They are impressive locks. Diebold seems to have sold very similar locks, does anybody know if they are/were made by the same company? Does Diebold buy from S&G and simply re-brand them?

That’s an interesting dial/ring. I’ve seen locking dials/rings before but not like this one.

Here are a few publications that might be useful. You’ll probably want to get a change key just to be complete.

630-102-lobc-vault-changing.pdf

2MB

630-114-vault-lobc.pdf

336kB

630-137-vault-lock-op.pdf

305kB

vault-lock-dim.pdf

2MB

chemicalbob

Yes that is very impressive, nice close up pictures. I bet that is fun to take apart & reassemble. Very nice.

femurat

Thank you very much for the manual and instructions wylk, I needed them. looks like it’s a 6510.
I’m planning to use a homemade change key I have, hoping it works. This will happen after it’s mounted on a stand.

You’re right chemicalbob, it’s fun to take it apart and reassemble. But the best part will be manipulating it open…

Cheers 🙂-:

Timothy

That the first time see one of them. I have see all the other S & G combination lock but this is was differ. Just wonder if you has the old change key and the key for it…Timothy….🙁y):

femurat

Hello Timothy, I don’t have its change key but I have a homemade one that should work. I don’t have the key that locks the dial but I’m going to make one using a flat piece of steel and a small file. I’ll keep you updated about my progress…

Cheers 🙂

Doug MacQueen

Nice pictures. What you have is the direct drive version of the S&G UBV Universal Bank Vault lock. Yes Diebold used them. It could be set up for RH or LH mounting. A back section containing offset gearing could be attached for top, bottom or side shaft drive. There was also a manipulation resistant version. Doug

Adrian Weber

Very nice lock femurat congrats! 🙁clap):

femurat

Some time ago I tried to make a steel key for the dial blocking lock. I didn’t want to ruin the lock by impressioning it so I opened the lock and filed a flat piece of steel to match the six levers. It looked right but when I put the lock cover back it no longer worked. Looks like I filed down some position too much and/or I wasn’t holding the key perpendicular to the levers when I took measurements. I was disappointed and put everything back in the drawer.

Recently had some time to play with this lock again and decided to make a temporary aluminium key just to be sure about its bittings. Once the key works I’ll copy it on steel or, even better, brass. Here are the non working steel key and the aluminium blank I made.

I’ve inserted the blank and tried to turn and got some impression marks on the side. Those are somewhat related to the right bittings but it’s not a good idea to file to those depths. For example the sixth lever doesn’t require the key to be filed, but still marks it. You can see the mark on the finished key.
Since I had the lock disassembled I put back one lever at a time and filed just on that spot until the key turned freely and opened the lock. This way I could file and test one position at a time without the risk to file too much as I did with the steel key. I used a hacksaw to file down aluminium since it can easily clog files.

Here is the finished key next to the lock and on a ruler with cm and inches for my non metric friends.

I know the key looks very poorly made and I apologize for this. Keep in mind this is only a temporary key and I’m planning to make a better looking and longer lasting one. Don’t hold your breath since I’ve got not much free time lately so it could take a while. But I do want to finish this project.

Cheers 🙂-:

femurat

I’ve cleaned all the parts with a polishing compound intended for car body. I find it leaves the metal clean, dry and protected. Next step is reassembling all the parts on a simple wooden stand.

Usually the dial has a delrin insert to make it turn smooth but this one doesn’t.
Is the spline supposed to sit on the dial and lock itself, or should I include two ball bearings in the wooden stand?

Thanks 🙂

Rog

as a novice in this pastime hobby -
I’m curious as to what accounts for what appear to be metal shavings in the first few photo’s ? ? ?
also,
I’m I correct in that this lock has 8 numbers in the combination ?
thanks
Rog

wylk

Rog wrote
…I’m I correct in that this lock has 8 numbers in the combination ?

Most vault locks have 4 numbers, including this lock. In this case each of the 4 wheels is an assembly that includes two thin brass plates plus a lock/unlock mechanism that allows changing the combination without disassembling the lock (“key change” as opposed to “hand change”). Older locks (e.g. hand change) used solid wheels. So in this case there are 4 wheels (8 plates).

[unknown]

femurat

Hello Rog,

you’re right, the lever lock was full of brass shavings. The key operating the lock must have worn out the levers a lot. I see the levers profile where they touch the key are irregular. So that brass shavings you see there is “lever powder”. I guess this takes years of use.

Cheers 🙂-:

femurat

I haven’t had time to play with locks in the last months. This huge and beautiful lock has been sitting on my desk, between other things. I recently bought some wood to finish this lock stand and now the glue is drying. I hope to finish it soon.

… one day later …

So the glue dried and the stand looks good. I’ve sanded it and left natural wood like my others. Then assembled the lock. Looks good and works. I’m missing the two screws that hold the wheelpack in place. I’m also missing the two screws that hold the spyproof cover in place, must be some non metric size because the M4 don’t enter and M3 is loose. I hate when a project is almost finished but I miss some small parts.

Cheers 🙂-:

Timothy

WOW! Good job I’m sure everyone would like to have one..Timothy..

wylk

I’m certain that S&G would not have used metric screws, being based in the USA, also known as the living museum of ancient standards. It probably is 6-32.

femurat

Thanks for the compliments

I was looking for these screws and found out that the one used in electric switch may be the right size. I’ll check and let you know.

Cheers

Ant

Hi there thats looking good. keep up the good work

Warren63

Nice one. I have three combos sitting about so I might pinch your box idea to mount them. I know very little about locks so taking apart will be kept to a minimum. You’ve done a proper job, thanks for showing us.

femurat

Hey Ant I’m happy you saw the lock almost finished, so you know I haven’t abandoned it.

Thanks for the compliments, Warren63. My favourite stand is a simple T upside down. Just find a piece of wood or plywood thick enough, cut two pieces, screw them together and you’re done. This spline was long and I didn’t want to cut it down, so I opted for a box. Good luck with your project and don’t forget to show us what you do.

Here is my lock with the S&G dial screw

I’ve ordered some screws, I hope they’ll work.

Cheers 🙁happy):