Eagle Lock Key

PJR

Hello all, I have a small marine chronometer in a box that has an Eagle Lock securing it. Unfortunately the key is missing but I do know the proper code for it. It is a small “flat” key with the code “AG” on it and the name Eagle Lock Co Terryville Conn. Any help you could provide me in finding one would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Paul

Pschiffe

PJR wrote
Hello all, I have a small marine chronometer in a box that has an Eagle Lock securing it. Unfortunately the key is missing but I do know the proper code for it. It is a small “flat” key with the code “AG” on it and the name Eagle Lock Co Terryville Conn. Any help you could provide me in finding one would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Paul

The Eagle Lock Co. which dates back to 1854 went out-of-business in June, 1975. I’m told all the codes were destroyed at that time. Locksmiths have access to some of the Eagle codes but I don’t believe that one is available and few flat steel keys are cut from code anyway. An old time lockshop might possibly have a precut or a competent locksmith should be able to make you a key.

Pete Schifferli

[unknown]

PJR

Pschiffe wrote
The Eagle Lock Co. which dates back to 1854 went out-of-business in June, 1975. I’m told all the codes were destroyed at that time. Locksmiths have access to some of the Eagle codes but I don’t believe that one is available and few flat steel keys are cut from code anyway. An old time lockshop might possibly have a precut or a competent locksmith should be able to make you a key.

Pete Schifferli

Thanks Pete, I appreciate your quick response.

[unknown]

cowboyup

can you post a picture of the lock?

wylk

Can you post some pictures of the chronometer, too? I wanted to collect clocks many years ago but they tend to be pricey. So I took the word “clock” and dropped the “c” and started collecting locks instead.

PJR

cowboyup wrote
can you post a picture of the lock?

Hi, here is a pic of the lock and a correct key I was able to temporarily borrow. The box is 5″ across.

Paul

[unknown]

PJR

wylk wrote
Can you post some pictures of the chronometer, too? I wanted to collect clocks many years ago but they tend to be pricey. So I took the word “clock” and dropped the “c” and started collecting locks instead.

This is the subject clock. It is a small marine chronometer made by the Hamilton Watch Co in the early 1900’s. It is call a Hamilton “36” in gimbals. The gimbals absorbed the rocking of the ship thus creating a more accurate clock. These were used for navigation. These small “deck watches” were used on small Navy ships such as Torpedo Boats. In fact this size is typically called a Torpedo Boat Deck Watch. They were made by the three major US manufacturers at the time (Hamilton, Waltham, and Elgin), some private small US makers and several European makers. The lock was so that no one could mess with the time which was used to determine longitude. There are also large chronometers with special escapements that were used on any ship. These large chronometers were very accurate in being used to determine longitude.
Paul

[unknown]

cowboyup

PJR wrote
Hi, here is a pic of the lock and a correct key I was able to temporarily borrow. The box is 5″ across.

Paul

I realize you don’t know me but if you send me that key or a very accurate trace of that
key, I can file a copy for you from some blanks that I have. No charge.

I’m part of Adrian Weber’s locksport group if you want to check on my credentials.

Have a good one,
Rick Guenther

[unknown]

PJR

cowboyup wrote
I realize you don’t know me but if you send me that key or a very accurate trace of that
key, I can file a copy for you from some blanks that I have. No charge.

I’m part of Adrian Weber’s locksport group if you want to check on my credentials.

Have a good one,
Rick Guenther

Thanks for the generous offer Rick. I talked to the key owner and he is uncomfortable with his key going beyond me. If you can either tell me a source or sell me one of the pictured keys blanks, I am capable of filing it. I have a home machine shop including a lathe and milling machine and equipment for the repair of clocks and watches.
Thanks, Paul

[unknown]

Pschiffe

PJR wrote
Thanks for the generous offer Rick. I talked to the key owner and he is uncomfortable with his key going beyond me. If you can either tell me a source or sell me one of the pictured keys blanks, I am capable of filing it. I have a home machine shop including a lathe and milling machine and equipment for the repair of clocks and watches.
Thanks, Paul

It is a matter of securing a flat steel key blank of the correct thickness and width. Although the original Eagle and many other flat steel key blanks are long obsolete, Ilco still offers a good selection of sizes for universal application. See pdf of Section 6a of their Key Blank Directory 12th Edition at the link. Blanks could be purchased from a locksmith supply house or retail locksmith, most of whom have machinery capable of accurately duplicating that key within a few seconds time.
http://coremedia.kaba-ilco.com/key-systems/literature_grid/key_download.aspx?File=flat_steel_misc.pdf&Attachment=True

Pete Schifferli

[unknown]

PJR

Thanks Pete, I’ll check it out.
Paul

PJR

I just checked the ILCO site and their #1417 is close enough that I can modify it. Mine is .207 Wide and .045 Thick. The 1417 is .260 W and .050 T. I don’t think the .005 thickness extra will hurt me

paul

Pschiffe

PJR wrote
I just checked the ILCO site and their #1417 is close enough that I can modify it. Mine is .207 Wide and .045 Thick. The 1417 is .260 W and .050 T. I don’t think the .005 thickness extra will hurt me paul

I respectfully recommend one that is .040″ thick like 1225, 1225D, 1225PL, 615, 1215B or 1225BL etc. That extra .005″ could cause the key to bind unless the lock is quite worn. My two cents.

Pete Schifferli

[unknown]

cowboyup

PJR wrote
Thanks for the generous offer Rick. I talked to the key owner and he is uncomfortable with his key going beyond me. If you can either tell me a source or sell me one of the pictured keys blanks, I am capable of filing it. I have a home machine shop including a lathe and milling machine and equipment for the repair of clocks and watches.
Thanks, Paul

Hi Paul,

Here’s the link to a retail site that sells these keys individually.
http://mysecuritypro.com/T80KeyBlanks.aspx
Pete is right. Any steel key blank the correct width and thickness will
work. If it’s too long, just cut it shorter.

If I had a milling machine, I’d find a piece of
1/16 brass and cut my own key to the specs of your friends key
and skip the filing all together. Even though these type of keys
are normally manufactured from steel, brass works very nicely
as well. It’s just not quite as durable but it shines up beautifully.
I’ve been selling 6 lever locks with keys cut from blanks I
made with brass. 2 or 3 of those customers have commented
about how much they like the brass key.

I’ve been experimenting with cutting flat keys from brass
using an XY vice and a milling tip in my drill press. Since
brass can get very grabby, the milling bit must be sharp or
things start dancing around. lol

A little long winded, but I hope this helps,
Good Luck,
Rick

[unknown]

PJR

Thanks everyone, this is a great site with knowledgeable and willing to help people. I am a member of several watch and clock sites and most folks want to keep their knowledge to themselves.
Again thanks, Paul

PJR

Oh,BTW Rick, I agree that I will and can cut the key entirely on my equipment. I was just hoping I could find an original key. I have many if these chronometers and like them to be as original and correct as possible.
Paul